I had long dreamt about this trip and I knew it was going to be great, but I couldn't imagine that it would've been SO amazing. So many things happened (and it's not over yet!) so I'll try to list them briefly here, waiting to get to Denmark to upload some pics. I'll try to be precise with the costs so that you can see how ridiculously cheap fun can be!Day 1Friday 19/6Brillo and me set off at 7:30 direction Þórsmörk. 3 CouchSurfers (2 Americans and 1 Canadian) gave us a ride to Seljalandsfoss, a waterfall on the road there. We paid 1000kr each for both rental and gas, and there at 11 we took the 4x4 bus that took us to the National Park (3000kr, over 1 hour drive). We ate some of our food there at Húsadalur, bought a map and started hiking. It was an amazing sunny day. We climbed over a mountain (500m) and down to the next stop, Langidalur. We were supposed to cross a river there and reach the mountain pass Fimmvörðuháls in the late evening. There was a broken bridge, and since neither the map nor the guide that we had read mentioned that it was impossible to wade it, we tried to cross in a myriad of different spots until late in the evening. Then eventually, after getting completely soaked in ice-cold water we realized it was impossible, went back to the campsite and asked the warden. He said that indeed it was impossible, and that we could either take a bus or pay 1000kr for getting a ride from him. We said thanks and arranged a meeting for the following morning at 8:30 and went pitch our tents. It was freezing cold during the night, I got wounds in my hands because of washing dishes in far too cold water at the river, and way too tired (and freezing) for being the first day, we went to bed after accidentally waking up a guy at a cabin that told us we had to pay to camp there. We told him that we didn't know and that there weren't any services to pay for there (running water, wc, shower, nothing, oly ground), and he said he didn't care and for this time it was OK.Day 2Saturday 20/6Knowing that it was already starting taking longer time than I had planned, we started the day ignoring the meeting that we had to cross the river, and asking the first guy with the jeep that we found. He drove us across the river for free, and there we went. At around 10 we were at the other stop, Básar, where the warden offered us coffee and asked us where we intended to go. We said we were going up and they got really worried about us: they said we didn't have the proper gear, too bad clothes, and that the weather forecast was just too bad that day. It was supposed to be rainy, maybe even snowy up there, and in case of fog we wouldn't have seen the ladmarks and missed the hut, which would have meant to be completely lost. The weather was more than fine when he was saying that, and although I was scared because of the steepness and all the stuff I was carrying, I really wanted to go before the weather got worse. The guy was so worried that said that he would have given us free camping for one night if we had stayed there that night. But it was 11 am, we were late on our schedule already, and going back to road N1 would have taken too long. So we decided to go, and I must admit that that was the most stupid thing I've done in my life - I was soon extremely tired from carrying all that stuff, I was sweating like a racing horse, it was getting really steep, and later on when the snow started, I was sinking so much into it that every step was like lifting lead with my feet. Eventually we made it though, roughly 6 hours from Básar to the mountain pass: according to the guide, it should have lasted 5 hours from Húsadalur to the hut in the pass (30km). The weather didn't get bad as the guy was saying, but sure it was fairly cold up there, and some paths considerably difficult and dangerous. A couple of times I thought I'd have never made it, but then I tried to relax and sharpen my will. At the hut there was a German guy who became a wardem after many years travelling in the area. There was no water there, no shower, just melted snow for drinking and rain for washing dishes, and some gas and oil to make warm and cook. We paid 2300kr for one night there, and the next day it was fairly warm.Day 3Sunday 21/6The next day we hiked all the way down to Skógar (4h) and reached my friend Piotr from Poland, that works in a restaurant there and we get free food from him. Then we decided to go a pool istead of taking a shower, and we were told that there was an abandoned natural hot pool in the next valley (called Seljavallalaug). We hitch-hiked there (2 Italian guys gave us a ride), spent a couple of hours boiling in the water and then hitch-hike back (curator of the museum in Skógar picked us up, gave us some free tickets but we couldn't go). We got free soup from Piotr and crashed on his two couches.Day 4Monday 22/6We started from Skógar at around 11 and an Icelandic couple gave us a ride after very few minutes to Vík (20min). There we took some pics, ate lunch, spent 2 hours at the pool and bought some groceries (1500kr each). Then we started hitch-hiking at around 3:30 pm at a gas station, but nobody would stop. We waited for 1,5-2 hours until a telephone technician gave us a ride until a place in the middle of nowhere between Vík and Kirkjubæjarklaustur. From there we started getting scared, there were very few cars and nothing else. After 5 minutes though, a nice girl pulled over saying she was going to Skaftafell: I was almost crying for happiness, we were going there too, she was working at an hotel there, and we got there at 7 after more than one hours of Beatles and other nice music and a lot of smokes. There we pitched the tents (750kr at campsite) and went for a walk to Svartifoss and over the glacier.Day 5Tuesday 23/6We were not sure what to do that day because we had no motivation to hike so much after the long hike to Skógar, and guided tours were expensive. But it was raining and the weather was going to be bad. So we packed our stuff and started hitch-hiking in the middle of nowhere at the feet of the Vatnajökull: after 5 minutes an Italian couple stopped, saying that they were going to Höfn (which they could not pronounce, of course). We were also heading there but told them that they should stop at Jökulsárlón first, which we deed. We watched the icebergs floating in the glacial river, and drove over to the probably most boring Icelandic town. There we ate some food and went to the pool to warm up and remove some filth. The swimming pool there is the only real attraction and everything else we saw was pretty much crap. We found a ride back to road N1 and then Brillo and me finally parted. I started hitch-hiking from the middle of nowhere at around 5, and after over an hour I was losing confidence. There was hardly a car and none in my direction. After chatting to some sweet horses from behind a fence, finally a car appeared, and without even asking me where I was going, a guy came out and opened the trunk for accommodating my bag. Instinctively I took it off and put it there, and asked in English "Are you going to Egilstaðir?". He looked at me like I had said something incomprehensible. "With the E...?" he said, and then I thought OK, there is not much else with the E in that direction and anywhere is better than standing there. Then I found out that they were going to camp there before driving to the North, and at 10 p.m. we were at the campsite in Egilstaðir, exactly where I wanted to be and where I could not hope to be that evening. I had a long chat with the guys during and after dinner, we started liking each other and eventually they gave me some very nice beer: "we bought too much and we need to unload it", they said. I thought it was too much good for happening in one day, and went to sleep (campsite 900kr with shower).Day 6Wednesday 24/6One day left until the ferry leaves, and I only had 25km to go to Seyðisfjörður. I had a nice walk around Egilstaðir, the weather was awesome, and then I crashed on the grass close to a bridge. It was too beautiful. I had the whole day for me, no stress and beutiful weather. After a couple of hours of doing nothing I started hiking to the North. After 20 minutes I was at the crossroad to the harbour town. I didn't even have time to put down my stuff and spread my thumb, that a nice lady eating harðfiskur pulled over and drove me to the town in something like 15 minutes. Seyðisfjörður is one of the most pictoresque places in Iceland, really beautiful, especially in that weather. Although it's way smaller than Egilstaðir, the capital of the East, there is much more going on there: there are heaps of concerts, art exibits, and an alternative microcinema (Mini Ciné), that unfortunately was closed that night. Then I went to the ferry terminal to see where it was and get a map of the place. There I met again Adam, an Australian CouchSurfer travelling the world as a self-taught cook since 10 years, that got there hitch-hiking from the North! We had met already in Reykjavík, where he contacted me and asked me to cook something together, and I told him to come to FoodNotBombs. He was with a French-Canadian girl that I had seen in skaftafell before. He proposed to cook that night at the hostel, and also bought a lot of booze. I brought the beer that the Americans gave me, ate like crazy and eventually ended up at a bar at the harbour doing karaoke. I didn't want to sing, but since my glass was somehow always full again for the fist hour, then I started singing, and since I was so good that I was winning more beer, we ended up completely wasted.At the campsite (600kr, chepeast ever) I accidentally met Eyðbjørn, the Faroese CouchSurfer that I had contacted a month before. He soon proved to be an amazingly nice guy, told me he had heaps of Surfers before, which he takes special care of, while refusing a lot more, although his profile was poor and with no references. He was travelling around Iceland with his girlfried on two motorbikes, and also going back home on the ferry.Day 7Thursday 25/6The next day we embarked at around 11, and in the afternoon he took me around on the ferry as if it was his home, bought me coffee, a ticket for the cinema and tons of drinks for himself (G-o-d). the ferry was shaky, but I didn't get seasick. We chatted a lot also with another Norwegian motorbiker, and took several naps in the afternoon waiting for the ferry to arrive.Day 8Friday 26/6After the ferry arrived in Tórshavn he went home to drop his stuff, and then came back with an extra helmet and brought me home. Then we had breakfast together with Danish cheese. Then he brought me to his parent's house, that will be the "couch" that I'll be surfing for these three days, since his parents are away on holiday. Then he showed me around, we took the ferry at 8 to Nólsoy, and hiked around until 1pm. The weather is ultra awesome and I am getting seriously sunburnt: it's so sunny that it's almost annoying to walk on the street, almost like Italy! Tonight I'm baking pizza for my host, and then we'll have some Føroya Øl, the local beer, which can be very nice. Tomorrow I'll probably go to a festival in Suðuroy but right now the priority is getting some rest before embarking again on Sunday night. Wow!
See original: 
